Different home textile patterns have different emotional expressions. Emotion evaluation of home textile patterns can effectively improve the retrieval performance of home textile patterns based on semantics. It can not only help designers make full use of existing designs and stimulate creative inspiration but also help users select designs and products that are more in line with their needs. In this study, we develop a three-stage framework for home textile pattern emotion labeling based on artificial intelligence. To be specific, first (...) of all, three kinds of aesthetic features, i.e., shape, texture, and salient region, are extracted from the original home textile patterns. Then, a CNN -based deep feature extractor is constructed to extract deep features from the aesthetic features acquired in the previous stage. Finally, a novel multi-view classifier is designed to label home textile patterns that can automatically learn the weight of each view. The three-stage framework is evaluated by our data and the experimental results show its promising performance in home textile patterns labeling. (shrink)

In his speech to an assembly of « corporate citizens » at the conference « Fibers and Textiles for the Future » at the University of Tampere in Finland, Hank Hardy Unruh of the WTO explains all the advantages of freedom and remote labor: After all, the American South, a great producer of textiles in its time, gained nothing from its localization of slavery. But remote labor demands close-up forms of surveillance and therefore creates a new market, for (...) which the WTO proposes a « textile solution » ... By passing themselves off as the representatives of an unbearable new world order to which businessmen and technocrats have not ceased to assent, the Yes Men create au extremely effective form of invisible theater, intervening’ in real situations and using various media to deliver their parodic and precise critique of neoliberal ideology. (shrink)

The received translation and interpretation of many of the technical terms current in the textile industry of the Roman Empire are inaccurate, because lexicographers have either fought shy of being precise, or have thought that they recognized in the ancient world technical processes which originated at a much later date. The evidence is often equivocal or insufficient, but may still yield details that have been overlooked. The textile expression scutulatus, to take an example, deserves more attention than Blümner has devoted (...) to it. When it refers to the appearance of a garment, Lewis and Short, s.v. scutulatus, translate ‘diamond or lozenge-shaped, checkered’. It seems worth while to attempt a more precise translation, and, if possible, to estimate the significance in context of the goods so designated. (shrink)

The received translation and interpretation of many of the technical terms current in the textile industry of the Roman Empire are inaccurate, because lexicographers have either fought shy of being precise, or have thought that they recognized in the ancient world technical processes which originated at a much later date. The evidence is often equivocal or insufficient, but may still yield details that have been overlooked. The textile expression scutulatus, to take an example, deserves more attention than Blümner has devoted (...) to it. When it refers to the appearance of a garment, Lewis and Short, s.v. scutulatus, translate ‘diamond or lozenge-shaped, checkered’. It seems worth while to attempt a more precise translation, and, if possible, to estimate the significance in context of the goods so designated. (shrink)

The surviving portion of the tenth-century Egyptian Muḥammad b. Aḥmad al-Tamīmī’s recently edited Ṭīb al-ʿarūs has several formulas relating to the dying and perfuming of textiles. Some refer to the use of carved molds to impress designs upon textiles. Tamīmī’s formulas treat in particular the application of gold leaf and perfumed dye pastes with blocks, but presuppose the technology of using blocks to apply designs to textiles and include a vocabulary of technical terms for the process. This (...) textual evidence provides additional context for surviving early medieval Islamic block-printed gilded textiles. The attestation of the use of blocks to decorate textiles is contemporary with the use of blocks to print Arabic amulet texts, known by the tenth century from extant specimens and some literary evidence. (shrink)

For Viennese artist Florian Pumhösl »abstraction is a method«, not a category. Or rather, if abstraction is the defining category of modernism, the objective is to reproduce modernism's problems and limits and exploit relationships among its parts. Considering what Pumhösl calls the »textile complex« of modernism, this essay examines the artist's work in parallel with Charles Sanders Peirce's diagram concept and Gottfried Semper's use of textile diagrams throughout Style in the Technical and Tectonic Arts. _German_ »Abstraktion« ist für den Wiener (...) Künstler Florian Pumhösl eine »Methode«, keine Kategorie. Oder vielmehr, wenn Abstraktion die bestimmende Kategorie der Moderne ist, dann ist das Ziel, die Probleme und Beschränkungen der Moderne zu reproduzieren und die Beziehungen zwischen ihren Elementen auszunutzen. Vor dem Hintergrund dessen, was Pumhösl den »Gewebekomplex« der Moderne nennt, untersucht dieser Bei trag das Werk des Künstlers und führt es mit Charles Sanders Peirces Diagramm Konzept und Gottfried Sempers Einsatz von »textilen« Diagrammen in seinem Werk Der Stil in den technischen und tektonischen Künsten eng. (shrink)

For Viennese artist Florian Pumhösl »abstraction is a method«, not a category. Or rather, if abstraction is the defining category of modernism, the objective is to reproduce modernism's problems and limits and exploit relationships among its parts. Considering what Pumhösl calls the »textile complex« of modernism, this essay examines the artist's work in parallel with Charles Sanders Peirce's diagram concept and Gottfried Semper's use of textile diagrams throughout Style in the Technical and Tectonic Arts.

Le tissu comme support, matériau ou modèle traverse l'histoire de l'art, et se manifeste également sous la forme d'analogies ou de métaphores dans d'autres disciplines artistiques. La racine étymologique qui lie la notion de texte au champ lexical du tissage établit un jeu d'échos entre la patience de Pénélope à défaire et refaire son ouvrage et le travail même du poète et l'image du tissage surgit encore, tout naturellement, dans la terminologie de Derrida pour définir ce qui fait l'essence même (...) d'un texte. La diversité des hantises exercées par la notion de texture et par l'objet tissu conduit à un questionnement mettant en jeu la connaissance des textiles aussi bien que l'analyse des pratiques artistiques et des formes esthétiques auxquelles le tissage a pu donner lieu. Ce volume se fonde donc sur une approche croisant histoire de l'art, esthétique et littérature pour interroger la façon dont l'image de la chose tissée travaille le monde de la création artistique. La recherche collective qui prend forme dans ces pages propose d'explorer les prouesses d'une métaphore peut-être irremplaçable, et peut-être nécessaire à la survie de l'oeuvre d'art en son essence. (shrink)

During the last years competition in the textile sector has increased, putting financial returns under considerable pressure. As a result, production has shifted to low wage countries in the third world. This has raised the relevance of ethical procedures. This paper analyses how C&A, as one of the largest Western apparel companies, organises its sourcing ethics, notwithstanding the financial pressure in the market. Based on interviews with Asian suppliers of C&A during the second half of 2000, we review the opinions (...) of external stakeholders about the sourcing ethics of C&A. Finally, we evaluate C&A’s sourcing ethics from a theoretical perspective. (shrink)

During the last years competition in the textile sector has increased, putting financial returns under considerable pressure. As a result, production has shifted to low wage countries in the third world. This has raised the relevance of ethical procedures. This paper analyses how C&A, as one of the largest Western apparel companies, organises its sourcing ethics, notwithstanding the financial pressure in the market. Based on interviews with Asian suppliers of C&A during the second half of 2000, we review the opinions (...) of external stakeholders about the sourcing ethics of C&A. Finally, we evaluate C&A’s sourcing ethics from a theoretical perspective. (shrink)

Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennia BC. Edited by C. Michel and M.-L. Nosch. Ancient Textile Studies, vol. 8. Oxford UK and Oakville, CT: Oxbow Books, 2010. Pp. xix + 444, illus. $70.

_Textile sector of Pakistan is one of the great contributors in country’s economy, and also the key contributor in making the environment polluted. Textiles have lengthy and complex supply chains (SC) which have crucial role in sustainability. Energy intensive business processes, excessive use of water and hazardous chemicals, use of synthetic yarns and fibers, make it crucial to implement sustainable practices in SC of textile industries. Pakistani textile sector does not fully adopt the sustainable practices that are being used (...) around the world and it is not immediately clear to what extent the practices used in the local industry benefit the environment. The objective of this study is the analysis of ongoing sustainable practices of Yunus Textile Mills (YTM), impact of those sustainable practices and review of international sustainable practices that can be implemented at YTM. In this research quantitative and qualitative research methods have been used along with Triple Bottom Line Approach of Sustainability. Data gathered through business publication, onsite surveys & interviews. Results obtained from the study shows that sustainable practices used by Yunus textile have positive impact on environment._. (shrink)

The achievements of the textile industry in Roman Britain are often underestimated as a result of the meagreness of our available evidence. The Edict on maximum prices issued by Diocletian in A.D. 301 shows that British capes commanded high prices on the markets of the Empire, and that in the late third century A.D. British rugs were the best in the world. In view of the competition from the traditional centres of rug manufacture in the East, this is an astonishing (...) achievement. (shrink)

The achievements of the textile industry in Roman Britain are often underestimated as a result of the meagreness of our available evidence. The Edict on maximum prices issued by Diocletian in A.D. 301 shows that British capes commanded high prices on the markets of the Empire, and that in the late third century A.D. British rugs were the best in the world. In view of the competition from the traditional centres of rug manufacture in the East, this is an astonishing (...) achievement. (shrink)

In this article I describe the development of my collaboration with the textile artist Susie Freeman in the production of the visual arts project Pharmacopoeia. Over the last 3 years we have created a body of work that aims to provide information about common medical treatments in a way that engages the public imagination. The work is dominated by the use of active pharmaceuticals, both pills and capsules, which are incorporated into dramatic fabrics by a process known as pocket knitting. (...) These fabrics are then made into clothing and accessories, making their individual messages easier to ‘read’. The work aims to encourage people to think about their own medical and pharmacological history, and to reflect on their relationship with commonly prescribed drugs. It also reveals how dependent our society is on pharmaceuticals, how ambivalent we feel about them and yet how casually we use them. (shrink)

Machine generated contents note: -- Introduction: Decadence, Feminism and "Excess" Chapter 1: Consuming Craft, Cupcakes and Cocaine: Orly Cogan, Shane Waltener and Shelley Miller Chapter 2: Pleasure Craft: Nava Lubelski, Mickalene Thomas and Shary Boyle Chapter 3: Bad Women?: Tracey Emin, Ghada Amer and Allyson Mitchell Chapter 4: "The Decaying Fabrics of Life and Death": Rozanne Hawksley's Textile Art Bibliography -- Index.

We investigate the impact of corporate governance (CG) on environmental, social, and governance (ESG) performance in the textile industry in developing countries, taking into account the moderating role of technological innovation (TI). Based on institutional theory, we investigated the connection between CG, TI, and ESG performance. The study used secondary data from 197 textile firms in West Africa from 2010 to 2022. Our findings revealed a positive relationship between gender diversity and ESG performance. Similarly, a positive relationship was found between (...) board independence and ESG performance. Contrarily, an inverse connection was found between board size and ESG performance, as well as CEO duality and ESG performance. The study adds to the academic literature on CG and ESG performance by emphasizing the necessity of balancing economic development with social responsibility and environmental preservation. In addition, the study highlights the need to stimulate technological innovation and create an effective governance structure conducive to implementing firms' ecological responsibilities. Lastly, policymakers can adopt the integrated ESG index in measuring firms' sustainability performance across all sectors and regions. (shrink)

The entwining of the craft worker’s body both with the materials of her artistic process and with the craft object itself is central to an understanding of craft aesthetics. This paper addresses embodied craft in Lia Cook’s weavings, which foreground the artist’s body and the embodying dynamics of woven art. Cook’s work is read in relation to the Lady of Shalott, a fictional textile artist portrayed in Alfred Lord Tennyson’s poem by that name, and the painted versions of it by (...) William Holman Hunt and other Pre-Raphaelite artists. Cook’s work emerges as an elaboration upon Pre-Raphaelite ideas for the digital age, and a useful model for understanding the embodied dynamics of craft aesthetics. (shrink)

Unlike many countries across the world, in Chile after 1968 a radical socialist government came to power with the electoral victory of Salvador Allende and Popular Unity underpinned by a whole range of movements toward a socialism “from below”. Using fragments gathered from workers’ newspapers produced during the 1930s, 1950s and 1970s, the aim of this article is to identify the changing content of radical socialist politics that coalesced by the time of this electoral victory in and through the “everyday” (...) experience of workers in the textile industry. Workers in this sector were at the forefront of the profound changes underway during the prior period of import-substitution industrialisation from the 1930s and the “pre-revolutionary” moment of 1970-1973, where major textile firms were amongst the first to be occupied and nationalised under the Allende government. By tracing the evolution of socialist ideas in these publications —published by trade unions, political parties and, in the 1970s, by workers in the occupied factories themselves— I unravel the development of a radical socialist politics through these decades that then coalesced with the electoral victory of the UP in 1970. Methodologically, I draw on the work of Chilean sociologist Tomás Moulian (1993) and his concept of ideas “en uso” to examine how radical socialist ideas developed and changed in their interaction with workplace conflicts of the time. Consequently, I identify four areas in which these ideas developed: expression of the changing workplace; interpretation of discontent through legalist and radical discourse; the complexities of Chilean socialist and anti-imperialist ideas; and the construction of historical memory. I demonstrate how the interplay of these four features of Chilean socialist ideas were represented in an “everyday socialism” that informed the factory occupations and nascent social transformations after 1970. (shrink)

The aim of this study is to understand how governance mechanisms in cross-sector collaborations (CSCs) for sustainability affect value creation and capture and subsequently the survival of this organizational form. Drawing on a longitudinal, participatory, single-case study of collaborative action in the textile industry, we identify three governance mechanisms—safeguarding, bundling and connecting—that coevolve with the rising and waning of collaborative tensions and the shifting levels of action in the CSC we studied. These mechanisms aided value creation and helped facilitate private (...) value capture. We integrate these insights into a process model that visualizes the interplay between governance mechanisms of tensions and systems of value creation and capture in CSCs for sustainability. Our study contributes to the cross-sector collaboration literature by providing a dynamic and nuanced understanding of how governance mechanisms influence outcomes in CSCs for sustainability. We also add to the business model for sustainability literature by theorizing the value creation and capture system of collaborative rather than individual organizations. Our findings have important implications for policymakers who fund collaborative organizations and practitioners who manage or participate in them. (shrink)

Drawing on sources such as home furnishing manuals, hygiene and household guidebooks, as well as literary texts, this article examines how the nineteenth-century domestic interior can be regarded as a functional environment regulated by textiles. In the debate about the correct usage of furnishing textiles in line with contemporary aesthetic and sanitary standards, women were held responsible for regulating these textile environments. While on the one hand this led to a supposedly natural and mechanical conflation of women and (...) domestic space which has often been interpreted as restrictive and encapsulating, my aim is to identify a specific feminine agency that has its origin in the home but is not limited to it. By tracing the negotiations of this gendered textile expertise in different fields of knowledge and forms of representation, this article reevaluates the relationship between textiles, domesticity and femininity in the nineteenth century. (shrink)

ZusammenfassungIn diesem Artikel wird untersucht, inwiefern Textilien in den einrichtungstheoretischen, medizinisch-hygienischen und literarischen Auseinandersetzungen mit dem Wohnen im 19. Jahrhundert als funktionale Umgebungen des Lebendigen entworfen werden. Damit sind zugleich geschlechtliche Zuschreibungen verbunden, die die Frau als Verantwortliche für die Regulierung dieser textilen Umgebungen ausmachen. Während es so einerseits zu einer naturalisierenden und mechanisierenden Überblendung von Frau und Wohnraum kommt, ist mit der Verwissenschaftlichung und Technisierung des Wohnens andererseits eine weiblich konnotierte Expertise verbunden, die nicht allein auf den Innenraum des (...) Hauses begrenzt ist. Der Artikel nimmt die Verhandlungen textiler Expertise und Gestaltungsmacht in unterschiedlichen Wissensbereichen und Darstellungsformen in den Blick, um das Verhältnis von Textilien, Wohnen und Weiblichkeit im 19. Jahrhundert neu zu perspektivieren. (shrink)

The objective of this research is to identify the main weaknesses of corporate social responsibility in the textile sector and to propose procedures that help to overcome them. We start from the assumption that the asymmetries and necessary relationships generated to manufacture textile garments in the international context are not attributable to a single circumstance. Equally, it is reasonable to assume that the solutions to these asymmetries are affected by the identification and transversality of such circumstances. The present research was (...) carried out by gathering the opinions and solutions of participants in a Delphi analysis to uncover the critical points and vulnerabilities of the sector. The weaknesses of the sector were then identified following the analysis of responses from two expert panels to two multidisciplinary questionnaires, the questions for which were developed from the stated hypotheses.El objetivo de esta investigación es detectar las principales debilidades del sector textil en relación con la responsabilidad social empresarial y proponer medidas que contribuyan a superarlas. Partimos de que las asimetrías y relaciones generadas necesarias para fabricar prendas textiles en el contexto internacional no son imputables a una sola circunstancia. Es igualmente entendible que sus soluciones pasen por la identificación y la transversalidad de dichas circunstancias. En la presente investigación, lo llevamos a cabo mediante la de la recolección de opiniones y soluciones expresadas por diferentes participantes, y a través de un análisis Delphi, para conocer cuáles son los puntos críticos y vulnerabilidades del sector, y la posterior identificación de sus debilidades tras el análisis de las respuestas de dos paneles de expertos a dos cuestionarios multidisciplinares con preguntas desarrolladas sobre las hipótesis planteadas. (shrink)

Resource saving has become an integral aspect of manufacturing in industry 4.0. This paper proposes a multisystem optimization algorithm, inspired by implicit parallelism of heuristic methods, to solve an integrated production scheduling with resource saving problem in textile printing and dyeing. First, a real-world integrated production scheduling with resource saving is formulated as a multisystem optimization problem. Then, the MSO algorithm is proposed to solve multisystem optimization problems that consist of several coupled subsystems, and each of the subsystems may contain (...) multiple objectives and multiple constraints. The proposed MSO algorithm is composed of within-subsystem evolution and cross-subsystem migration operators, and the former is to optimize each subsystem by excellent evolution operators and the later is to complete information sharing between multiple subsystems, to accelerate the global optimization of the whole system. Performance is tested on a set of multisystem benchmark functions and compared with improved NSGA-II and multiobjective multifactorial evolutionary algorithm. Simulation results show that the MSO algorithm is better than compared algorithms for the benchmark functions studied in this paper. Finally, the MSO algorithm is successfully applied to the proposed integrated production scheduling with resource saving problem, and the results show that MSO is a promising algorithm for the studied problem. (shrink)

Pendant plusieurs décennies, voire plusieurs siècles, les inventaires de Délos ont recensé les offrandes déposées chaque année dans les différents sanctuaires de l’île sacrée. Parmi elles se trouvent de nombreuses dédicaces de vêtements et de tissus dont la description témoigne de l’inventivité lexicale et sémantique des administrateurs sacrés. Parallèlement aux offrandes, les inventaires mentionnent également des tissus aux fonctions multiples. L’objectif ici est d’examiner la terminologie propre aux textes de Délos afin de déterminer ensuite quels renseignements nous livre cette étude (...) sémantique : les textiles à Délos sont les vecteurs d’identités multiples, qu’ils soient les témoins de pratiques religieuses particulières ou qu’ils constituent un indice social de l’époque hellénistique. (shrink)

Neoliberal restructuring and the feminization of export-led industries are often associated with the disempowerment of women in the workplace. Surprisingly, this disempowerment was not the case with a public textile company in Mahalla, an industrial city north of Cairo. Between 2006 and 2008, workers organized wildcat strikes involving around 24,000 workers. In contrast to the strike waves of the 1980s, women were integral to organizing the strikes and assumed leadership roles in them. This article argues that even as Egypt adopted (...) structural adjustments in the 1990s that led to the decline of the historically leading sectors of textiles and yarn, exports of clothing increased. By the 2000s, the clothing sector was completely feminized and women in Mahalla were positioned in the most productive departments. This change empowered women by elevating their role and induced skeptical male colleagues to support women’s activism in the company and to build cross-gender solidarity. (shrink)

An Epic of Technical Supremacy: Works and Words of Medieval Chinese Textile Technology. By Dieter Kuhn. Riggisberg (Switzerland): Abegg-Stiftung, 2022. Pp. 488. CHF 120.