Isis 115 (2):292-311 (
2024)
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Abstract
Musks, the foundation of many perfumes, as well as other ingredients of perfumes, were critical objects of study for establishing theoretical concepts about large ring chemical compounds and polymerization in the 1920s and 1930s. Because fragrance chemistry has been underdeveloped in the historiography, doubtless partly because it has become associated with the feminine, this has been ignored in the historiography. This essay highlights the strategic importance of perfume research, looking in particular at the work of Leopold Ružičkač, 1939 Nobel laureate in chemistry who had close ties to the fragrance industry, and Wallace Carothers at DuPont, whose well-known work on polymerization was intimately concerned with large ring compounds, including musk, and which indeed led to DuPont producing a synthetic musk in the 1930s.