Phenomenology of a Symbolic Dish: What Su Porceddu Teaches Us About Food, Meaning, and Identification

In Simona Stano & Amy Bentley (eds.), Food for Thought: Nourishment, Culture, Meaning. Springer Verlag. pp. 39-54 (2021)
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Abstract

How can we analyse a symbolic dish? Which kind of semio-political questions should we consider in such an analysis? Which cultural categories might be useful to study these socio-historical processes and the related forms of life? To answer these questions, we will deal with a specific case study: su porceddu, the roasted suckling pig that represents SardiniaSardinia’s contemporary symbolic dish. At one level, the analysis allows recognising some relevant issues for Sardinian cultureCulture in the broader context of Mediterranean history: first, the dishes’ fraught and varied meaningsMeaning reflect Sardinian traditional, local, regional, or national identitiesIdentity throughout time. At another level, the general categories of continuity/discontinuity, one’s own/someone else’s, knowledge/flavour, and memoryMemory/forgetfulness assist in analysing the meaningMeaning of foodFood. This relationalist approach highlights the notion of translatability as a key cultural and alimentary process, also allowing us to look at foodFoodconsumptionConsumption and description as embodied forms of and powerful tools for self-consciousness.

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