Abstract

My mother is a lousy cook. She has many other fine talents, but creating an attractive, tasty meal has always been beyond her reach. Even so, breakfast and dinner were daily rituals in my childhood home for which attendance was required. Just as we kids had no end of complaints about having to show up for meals (instead of getting to sleep in before school or hang with friends in the evening), we also took it for granted that my mother made every one of those meals, day after day, year after year. Much later, I came to realize that not only did she make the food, but by constructing these gatherings at the kitchen table, she made our family. Like most mothers in the world, her daily work at the stove created the food-centered events around which our family grew, bonded, fought, and shared, and to which we return periodically to get reacquainted. Even as “women’s work” is expanded and redefined, feeding the family remains a central responsibility in families of all kinds. Lang Bui, owner of the Ypsilanti-based Vietnamese restaurant, Da Lat, knows all about the value of food and cooking to the creation of family. She does most all of the wonderful cooking for this low-priced, high-quality restaurant, while her two daughter-in-laws wait on the tables. (Lately, her one-year-old granddaughter also adds to the family atmosphere, toddling quietly about the front of the dining area.) Their efforts have..